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On the Tonle Bassac river lies the island where the Khmer Rouge kept the wives of its murdered male victims. Will Jackson reports.

Cheav Bora, 24, plays chess in Toul Kork.
Fri, 25 April 2014

The making of a Cambodian chess champion: from pagoda to podium

Cambodia’s answer to Bobby Fischer barely looked at the chessboard as he decimated his opponent in 31 turns at a Tuol Kork coffee shop last Tuesday.

A vintage record player, with some of Pin Kim Seng’s more than 100 clocks.
Fri, 25 April 2014

Time to get a new hobby? Meet the collector who filled his house with old clocks

In Phnom Penh’s northern outskirts is a small house completely overrun with relics. More than 120 old clocks, ranging from 19th-century remnants of French colonialism to more modern examples from post-war Japan, adorn the walls.

Fri, 25 April 2014

Phnom Penh picks: the capital’s best brews, from fresh oolong to chai

With the many purported health benefits of tea – lower risk of heart disease and stroke, weight loss, increased concentration – there’s never been a better time to enjoy a cuppa.

A Mil family at home in Rolus village.
Fri, 25 April 2014

In Kratie, ethnic minorities struggle with drought and sanitation issues

Kratie, northwest Cambodia. In late March, the land in this western corner of the Kingdom is dry and arid. Access to water is limited, coming from wells provided from charitable organisations.

Chinary Ung is an accomplished clarinet and roneat eak player.
Fri, 25 April 2014

7 Questions with Chinary Ung

Composer Chinary Ung, 71, was last week awarded the John D Rockefeller award for 2014 from the Asian Cultural Council in the US. The award, given to those who have made a radical difference in their field, is worth $50,000.

The main dining area at Le Bistrot.
Fri, 25 April 2014

A meaty disappointment: steak a medium rarely well done at French Institute eatery

People like their steak all kinds of ways – medium, rare, well-done. Some like mushroom sauce; some, pepper sauce. Some are happy with just the marinade in which the thing is cooked.

The crispier the skin, the thicker the layer of fat.
Sun, 13 April 2014

Pigging out for New Year at Psar Orussey

The Lim Meng Heng family roast pig stall is one of half a dozen or so nearly identical operations set up cheek-by-jowl on the northwest edge of Phnom Penh’s Orussey Market.

Kim San gave birth to her daughter the day the Khmer Rouge arrived in Phnom Penh in 1975.
Fri, 11 April 2014

7 Questions with Kim San

Kim San, 71, survived the Khmer Rouge. Her story is particularly remarkable: she gave birth to her daughter the day she and her family were forced out to the provinces. To commemorate next week’s anniversary of when the Khmer Rouge took power, she spoke to Emily Wight about her memories.

A farmer paddles through his rice fields in Battambang during last year’s floods.
Fri, 11 April 2014

Droughts, flooding, disease: the reality of a Cambodia that has been hit by climate change

Disruption of typical weather patterns. Scorching drought interrupted by erratic rainfall. Water shortages and then, suddenly, a deluge of flooding. Poor crop yields; an increase in food prices; dreadful hunger.