There are two main ways of getting around Phnom Penh: motorbikes known locally as

"motos" and "cyclos", the French name for bicycle rickshaws.

They can be hailed by raising a hand but most will volunteer their services. Moto-drivers

usually wear caps.

The city's residents - relatively new to motor transport - are now developing driving

to a fine art but the increasing enforcement of traffic regulations could spoil the

fun. It is important to note that bigger vehicles have right of way.

Bicycles can be hired for $1 a day and motos for $5 from guest houses and cycle shops.

Fuel costs 600 riel per liter.

Cyclos offer a pleasant way to glide through the streets although they can make passengers

nervous in the rush-hour.

The biggest question is how much to pay. Many people develop their own systems based

on time, distance, how many people on the moto, personality of the driver, etc.

It is customary to pay more during the mid-day heat and at night when drivers face

the added risk of being shot off their motos after dark by armed bike thieves.

As a guide, a short journey during the day which costs about 500 riel can cost $1

at night.