Fancy crocodile? Try this new burger joint

The charcoal burger buns are made with black flour.
The charcoal burger buns are made with black flour. Charlotte Pert

Fancy crocodile? Try this new burger joint

If you cannot comfortably shove a hamburger into your mouth for a single bite, there’s a strong health argument against eating it. Exceptions may exist, however, for the occasional consumption of the tastiest oversized burgers, even those so big that ketchup scrapes the tip of your nose.

For all the fanfare with which junk-food fans met the opening of Burger King in January, the opening of GGBurger shortly before Christmas went almost unnoticed. Located above the Pencil Supermarket opposite the Hotel Cambodiana, this outdoor restaurant sits on a terrace overlooking Sisowath Quay with a neon sign to mark the location. Unlike the burgers they serve, it is tiny and easy to miss.

The menu is unique within Phnom Penh. What really stand out are the coal-dark burger buns. Made with black flour, they taste no different to the regular kind, but look great. Oregano and oatmeal raisin buns are also on the menu, which is limited to burgers and fries. There is a playful aspect to the place, with its cartoonish logo and dishes like Humpty Dumpty Sat on a Burger – with fried egg and green pepper. A video game fan has clearly named some of them: Super Mario Shrooms, Pineapple Express, Roshan’s Delight.

We ordered the Diablo3-Inferno Mode ($7.75), a three-patty burger with cheddar cheese and barbecue sauce. Although it wasn’t the biggest burger on the menu (there’s also the five-patty Pentakill for $12.25), eating it required serious jaw contortions. It was worth it. The Australian beef was juicy and the BBQ sauce less sugary than usual, with a zesty spiciness.

A friend had the Renekton Ignited ($5), named after a crocodile-like character in the League of Leagues online fighting game. True to its name, the paddy is made of crocodile tail. The taste was difficult to evaluate given the overwhelming presence of homemade tartar sauce, but the meat had a pleasant, lean texture with a slight chicken taste. Some say crocodile can be tasteless, but in this case the flesh absorbed the sauces like a sponge and made for a slightly healthier alternative to the pork and beef on the menu.

Video game nerds delight: you now have your own restaurant in Phnom Penh. For everyone else, there’s a great new place to indulge in your basest fatty food desires.

First floor, Pencil Riverside, opposite Hotel Cambodiana, #483 Sisowath.

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