WHEN the Moc Cuoi Giang mountain range is still covered in mist, Pa Xa Lao Hamlet is already bustling. Craftspeople are in a rush to finish their brocade costumes before the Lunar New Year holiday, or Tet.

Next to the Nam Nua Stream, Pa Xa Lao, in Dien Bien province, consists of 56 households of ethnic Lao who are masters of brocade weaving.

According to Lo Thiị Thom, a local craftswoman, the craft was founded a hundred years ago, and the hamlet has become well-known for its weaving techniques and unique patterns.

Along with the special methods, which have been handed down from generation to generation, Lao people here also use leaves to dye the fabrics.

“Before Tet, demand for brocade from local residents and others nationwide increases dramatically, so we have to work from dawn till dark,” said Thom.

In order to meet the increasing demand for products, Lo Van On, the Party Secretary of Pa Xa Lao Hamlet, said they had worked to preserve and develop the craft, expand to markets nationwide, and increase their income.

“It’s also a good way to present our identity on the domestic and international stage,” On said.

Most brocade products are made by ethnic Hmong people, especially those in the northern mountainous province of Ha Giang.

Can Ty Village in Quan Bạ district, which is famous for growing flax, is a small village of 270 households, but all are Hmong people.

Villagers don’t know exactly when the craft was founded.

Although mainly growing maize, potato and cassava, local women and young girls here are skilled in making brocade costumes and many other products. The items are popular among locals and tourists.

Traditionally, Hmong girls have to learn how to sew before marriage to make their own wedding dresses. When they are just little girls, they are trained by their mothers and grandmothers in embroidery, needlework and weaving.

In this way, cultural characteristics have not faded over time.

Cu Thi My, an elderly woman in the village, said: “When the children get married, two sets of clothes must be prepared. And when a Hmong person dies, they must have three sets of clothes to wear, so that they can meet their ancestors.”

A Hmong girl tells visitors about their brocade patterned products. Thanh Ha/vna/vns

“It’s necessary to plough the soil thoroughly to plant flax. After harvest, the plant is dried carefully and not exposed to the rain. In order to have a soft and beautiful product, we have to make fibres thin and even,” My added.

According to the vice-chairman of Can Ty village’s People’s Committee, Sam Van Dung, the village’s economy depends mostly on maize and rice. However, in order to preserve the craft, village authorities have focused on vocational training and creating jobs. A linen-weaving co-operative was also established in 2011.

“Fourteen households have joined the co-operative and engaged in the craft for a long time,” Dung said.

“The co-operative has provided training courses for women and girls in the village. The craft requires a skilled hand. At the beginning, we weave just for ourselves, and later for tourists who want to buy souvenirs. So far, our products including skirts, dresses, bags, blankets and towels have proven popular,” he added.

Deft hands: Putting final touches to handmade products. Xun Tu/vnA/vns

With Quan Ba district’s tourism potential, Hmong people in Can Ty village have more opportunities to develop brocade weaving and build a brand. This would contribute to the preservation and promotion of local ethnic culture.

Brocade products, which are common among different ethnic groups with typical patterns reflecting the culture of each group, are now being promoted as local specialities.

A cultural brocade festival was recently held in the Central Highlands province of Dak Nong, in an effort to encourage the preservation and development of ethnic groups’ brocade products in the context of global integration.

Authorities and designers also want the traditional fabric to be widely used in the fashion industry, presenting Vietnamese culture to the world. Vietnam News/ANN

Old art: Weaving brocade was founded a hundred years ago. Phan Tuan Anh/vnA/vns