Logo of Phnom Penh Post newspaper Phnom Penh Post - Vietnam’s tourism back on track in world’s largest cave



Vietnam’s tourism back on track in world’s largest cave

Content image - Phnom Penh Post
Visitors take part in a tour in Son Doong cave, one of the world’s largest natural caves, in central Vietnam’s Quang Binh province on Tuesday. AFP

Vietnam’s tourism back on track in world’s largest cave

Vast rock formations the size of multi-storey buildings loom above Ho Minh Phuc, as he picks a path through the gloom inside the world’s largest cave.

Phuc, who once earned a living through illegal logging, is a porter for the small tour groups that explore Vietnam’s Son Doong – a cave so large it has its own ecosystem and weather patterns.

Home to flying foxes and a 70m rock formation resembling a dog’s paw, the cave is an otherworldly wonder that has reshaped the lives of the surrounding community since it opened for boutique tourism in 2013.

Trapped in poverty, young men like Phuc once had little choice but to forage in the depths of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park – the World Heritage site where Son Doong lies.

“We had to do all we could to avoid the forest rangers. We did nothing good for nature,” 35-year-old Phuc said.

Lost for nearly two decades

Son Doong in central Quang Binh province was first discovered by local forager Ho Khanh in 1991, when he stumbled upon an opening in a limestone cliff and heard the sounds of a river deep inside.

But after returning home through the thick surrounding jungle, Khanh forgot where the hidden entrance lay, and it stayed lost for another two decades.

When he eventually led a team of British experts back there in 2009, the team found it had the largest cross-section of any cave anywhere on the planet.

It is large enough to house the 40-floor skyscrapers of an entire New York City block, according to adventure tour company Oxalis, which guides visitors into the caves.

When it was opened to tourists four years later, the lives of Khanh and hundreds of locals changed forever.

They soon became porters and guides and opened their homes to guests wanting a bed for the night.

“Some became rich with logging, but most lived a very hard life,” Khanh, now 52, said of the time before the cave was opened to the outside world.

“When tour companies came in, I told the youngsters their first duty was to protect the environment so as to benefit not just ourselves but also our children . . . so life can improve.”

Before the coronavirus pandemic, Vietnam’s tourism industry was booming, but the communist country has come under fire for failing to preserve landscapes as it rapidly expands the sector.

The area has so far largely stayed clear of the mass tourism model used in other Vietnamese holiday hotspots such as Halong Bay, where cruise ships have spewed sewage into once-pristine waters.

Protecting Son Doong

With only one company given permission to operate in each of the key caves, there is an incentive to protect them, with numbers of visitors limited and prices kept high.

Content image - Phnom Penh Post
Located in Vietnam’s central Quang Bing, Son Doong is the world’s largest cave. AFP

But challenges lie ahead, UNESCO warned recently.

Poaching remains among the national park’s “most serious threats”, it said in a report that also raised concerns over a proposal to build a cable car to nearby Hang En cave.

Logging has also not disappeared – 18 people were sentenced last year for cutting down trees in the national park.

As Covid-19 swept the globe, locals catering to international travellers have struggled. Khanh says his guests are 90 per cent down since the pandemic began.

But Son Doong has weathered the crisis fairly well overall, thanks to a boost in visitors among Vietnam’s fast-growing middle class.

The high-end tourism model of the caves, which provides around 500 jobs for the local community, has begun to attract interest in other areas, Oxalis said. But industry professionals are sceptical that the pandemic could spark a change in direction across the country.

Vietnam’s tourism industry has done “some very good policy making but they’ve generally ignored their own policies”, said Peter Burns, a tourism planning consultant and professor who worked on a five-year EU-funded sustainable tourism project in Vietnam.

Despite strong environmental protections in place, “they tend to build stuff anyway”, he said, pointing to the spread of high-rise hotels in Halong Bay.

For porter Phuc, it is crucial that the pandemic does not lead to a similar outcome in Son Doong. “If we expanded into mass tourism, it would of course harm the natural scenery,” he said. “That would be terrible.”

MOST VIEWED

  • With herd immunity likely in 2022, is Cambodia ready to reopen for tourism?

    The government aims to inoculate 80 per cent of the target population by June next year, giving it a head start among regional peers to reboot the sector but first, it has to do a few things to up its game A sign on a glass

  • Quarantine still a must for all arrivals, in next Covid chapter

    Since early May, an average of five to 10 Cambodian people have died from Covid-19 a day with many others testing positive amid the ongoing community outbreak. At the same time, however, hundreds of patients also recovered a day. The first Covid-19 case in Cambodia was

  • US wants 'full access' to Ream Naval Base

    On June 11, the US embassy's Defense Attaché Colonel Marcus M Ferrara visited Ream Nava Base in coordination with Cambodian officials following the recent approval of Prime minister Hun Sen to allay the concerns on Chinese military presence at the base as raised by US Deputy

  • Jab drive heading to 5 provinces

    The government is set to vaccinate more than 1.2 million people in five provinces after finishing with Phnom Penh and neighbouring Kandal in an ongoing campaign administered by the ministries of Health and National Defence. The five provinces are Preah Sihanouk, Kampong Speu, Takeo, Kampong Cham

  • New immigration bill targets illegal foreigners in Kingdom

    General Department of Immigration (GDI) officials are discussing revisions to the new draft law on immigration to prevent foreigners from entering Cambodia illegally and to supervise those living in the Kingdom more effectively. The revisions draw wide support among civil society organisations. GDI director-general Kirth

  • Kingdom set to be a gold producer

    Cambodia will soon join the roster of gold producing countries after the government announced the commencement of commercial gold mining operations in the Okvau area in southwestern Mondulkiri province's Keo Seima district from June 21. Prime Minister Hun Sen on June 10 announced that after 14 years of