Enso is good tucker in a no-fuss setting

Enso’s sous vide eggs – there’s one hidden in there – are a bit underdone for some.
Enso’s sous vide eggs – there’s one hidden in there – are a bit underdone for some. Daniel Nass

Enso is good tucker in a no-fuss setting

Enso – a new cafe serving up “contemporary Australian cuisine” on the ground floor of an apartment building in Street 240 – is the kind of place where you don’t really feel like you’re in Cambodia anymore. It could easily be located in Brisbane’s Valley or Prahran in Melbourne.

The bright interior – which doubles as a gift shop selling trinkets, glassware and ceramic knickknacks – is cool and no fuss, with a high-ceiling, industrial metal light fittings and parquetry flooring. It feels a little like an IKEA showroom. Outside is an espresso bar with tables and chairs for those who like to smoke and/or sweat while they eat.

Like those of most Australian cafes, Enso’s menu is diverse, but the food is all of a high standard with great produce cooked well.

For lunch, there are dishes like the honey-glazed ham hock with potato salad, honey and grain mustard dressing and a poached egg ($7.50) that is sweet, but not overpoweringly so, letting the flavour of the pork shine through.

Then there’s the sous vide chicken with potato and parmesan gnocchi, mushrooms and corn puree ($7.50). We found the chicken tender and moist and the gnocchi having just the right amount of bite.

Enso’s interior is bright, airy and no fuss.
Enso’s interior is bright, airy and no fuss. Daniel Nass

There are a goodly number of different breakfast options too. The Chak Chouka ($6.50) (Tunisian-style baked eggs with spicy sausage, tomato, peppers, olives) is hearty and flavoursome while the bacon and eggs with artisan sour dough ($4.50) are simple and delicious.

Our pick though is the eggs Benedict ($7), which piles heaps of fresh, bright baby spinach and tasty leg ham on toasted sourdough with a poached egg and good hollaindaise.

Which brings us to our only real gripes with the place: the poached eggs, touted as being cooked in a sous vide machine at 62 degrees, are consistently underdone (for our tastes) with whites still gooey and translucent.

And extra espresso shots cost $1, which makes strong coffees comparatively expensive, especially when you add in a 7 per cent service surcharge.

Still, you can ask them to cook the eggs a little longer and get your coffee fix elsewhere. Otherwise, Enso is one of the best new upper-price range cafes in town.

Enso is located at #50, Street 240. Tel: 078 626 240.

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